I arrived in Accra today, the capital city of Ghana. The route down was really nice with some lovely views, it was nice to see some hills, bends in the road,, banana trees and lush vegetation. I was regularly waved to a halt by friendly policemen (and women) who insisted I stop and chat, some did not even bother with the paperwork; they were just curious about me and the bike. Besides the change in vegetation on the ride south, the change in the economic situation was also apparent. Cars are newer (and faster), machinery rather than labour is used, there are more variety and more specialisation in the shops. Having said this, the West African norms of fruit sellers at the side of the road alongside money transfer agents and mobile phone topups are still there.
Category: Countries
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Day 33: Sleeping in a night club
I left my camp site today expecting dirt track roads all the way into town about 60km away. It was a nice surprise to find 1km later to be on good tarmac. Things got better as I started to feel better after a bad night. I think I have a chest infection hence the bad nights lying down and ok when up. Hopefully the anti biotics will help.
The first town Wa was were I had expected to find a hotel until I felt better. By the time I got there I did not feel the need so carried on. The roads and environment just kept getting better. The driving standards however just kept getting worse. Twice today i was forced off the road by oncoming overtaking vehicles. The scenery is definitely tropical now with bananas being one of the main cross.
Toward the end of the day I started looking for a hotel. Everywhere I tried had no internet so i kept going into one of the main cities. I went to the nice part of town and found a lovely hotel. Showered and cleaned up I got an early night and was asleep around 8pm. It is now 12.33am!!! I was woken 1 hour ago by car doors slamming and what I thought was somebody banging on a hotel door. No it is VERY load music from the night club next door. I have been to reception and woke her up. At least she can sleep through it. Apparently it goes on till 4am.
On a brighter note i have arranged to meet some Scouts tomorrow.
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Day 32: Welcome to Ghana: That will be £740 Please Sir!!!
OK I will get it back as it is a deposit on a temporary import permit for the bike but it does mean a change in plan (again). I have to exit Ghana by the same border I entered to get my money back.
On a brighter note I changed the chain on my bike this morning with the help of a few friendly locals. What a difference, a much quieter and smoother ride.
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Day 31: Bobo SomeThingOrOther
Distance: 540Km
Actually its Bobo Dioulasso, a town just inside the border between Mali and Burkino Faso. I am stopping here in a cheap hotel for the night ready to cross the border into Ghana tomorrow. -
Day 30: Bukina Faso Visa
I picked up my passport with a Burkina Faso visa in it today. There was a mild panic from the guy behind the counter when he could not find my passport. The lady who received it yesterday had put it between the pages of a book.
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Day 29: Ghana Visa
After two days of needing to stay near the small room and feeling tired, I was not looking forward to going out on the bike to collect my passport (and hopefully visa) from the Ghana embassy today. Especially after being told by several people and reading on the Internet that they only normally issue them here to residents of Mali.
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Day 28: A walk across the river. . And a rush back
Not much to report today. The day started well, I had some breakfast and went for a walk across the Pont D’Matyres which spans the river Niger. My intention was to walk to the markets. After half an hour I was in a desperate rush to return to the smallest room. The rest of the day has been spent reading and sleeping.
Tomorrow WILL be better. -
Day 27: Recovering
I do not know if it was the heat and exhaustion from yesterday or the meal I had when I arrived at the Sleeping Camel but my digestive system has been complaining since 4am this morning.
I managed to get out this morning with the intention of getting visas for Ghana and Ivory Coast. At the Ghana embassy the first reaction was no. They only issue visas to Mali residents. I stayed in their waiting area re-assessing and looking at the map. I had arranged to meet Scouts in Ghana and did not want to miss that. I could try for a visa in the Ivory Coast but if they refused I would be forced back into Mali then try Burkino Faso. If they refused i would be forced to bypass Ghana and go to Togo.
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Day 26: A Horrible Day
I left my hotel yesterday knowing I had a long way to go to reach the capital Bamako. It was about 650km away, about 7 hours riding.
I made good progress in the morning with the day getting hotter and hotter but at least it was not dusty like Senegal. At 1pm the heat was unbearable so I stopped at the roadside for a couple of hours and put a tarpaulin up over me amd the bike. At 3pm I started off again thinking at the current rate of progress I would arrive at about 7pm. Just before it got dark.
Things unraveled from then. First I was getting low on fuel and had seen no petrol for hours. I eventually refilled from my 5L jerry can. That should get me to Bamako. Then the roads started getting worse, I was down to an average of 40kpm from 80kph previously. Sometimes down to 20kph or less. Fuel was getting low again so bought 5L from a man selling fuel from old 1L wine bottles.
Now it was getting dark. What do I do? Not safe to camp and GPS says 20 minutes to go. Luckily I caught up with a coach so followed him into town. He knew the road and when to speed up or slow down for potholes. It was very dark now. I was very thirsty but dare not stop and lose the coach.
Although GPS said 20 minutes, It took over an hour to reach my camp site at because of the bad roads; it was 8.30pm when I arrived dehydrated and exhausted. I had a wash, a meal, several drinks and went to bed.
Today my plan is to stay near a toilet (last nights meal is the suspect) and to apply for a few visas.
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Day 25: The President is Coming.. NOT AGAIN!
My first camp in the true African bush went well. I had all my limbs in the morning and I slept soundly. That is after I put earplugs in, before that every rustle of the wind woke me up.
The ride today was pretty much as the rest of Senegal; hot and dusty. There has been a gradual change from salt production and green trees near the coast to charcoal production and more arid conditions inland.