( What is the plural of Oasis? )
I woke just before the dawn this morning to see a beautiful sunrise. After getting packed I was on the move by 7.30.
The road was a long straight one with the occasional potholes but unchanging. I had the desert to my left the sea to my right and a lot of tarmac in front of me. Every now and again the coastline would change and i would see large sand filled inlets that I assume were once full of sea, or go over a bridgeover a dried up river.
Blog
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Day 14: Western Sahara and Two Oasis
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Day 13: Into the Sahara Desert
Distance: 590km
Just a quick update today as I have been on the road for 9.5 hours with only a 45 minute break for dinner.
This bit was always on my list of NOT spots and apart from a few bright spots it has lived up to expectations with long straight roads with little variation in scenery.
I have stopped at a little roadside camp site where a young girl and her mother seem to be in charge. They don’t speak French which is what I have been using up to now (badly) but they only speak some form of Arabic. The girl wrote down the camp fee as 500…. Now that is about 50 pounds. . What!! I said no too much and the mother got out 25 from a cash box. Ahhh that’s better, about 2.50 in pounds.
I was just about to put up my tent but the mother pointed to some tents. I gave the international signal for sleep ( hands together at side of head) and she nodded. Looks like i’m sleeping in there then.
Tomorrow I go deeper into the desert. -
Day 12: Easter on the beach
Distance 0km
I woke early to the sound of waves on the shore, had breakfast of a fresh orange and read my kindle for a couple of hours. Does life get better?
I changed the tyres on the bike, did my washing, took a walk on the beach and sat on the rocks for a while, drank coffee at the cafe, made my dinner of pasta and tomato and then read some more.
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Day 11: Rabat to Wassai beach.
Distance: 470km
They have big oranges here Last night somebody on the HUBB confirmed that the Mauritanian visa was available at the border. I have decided to go for it. If the information is right it saves me three days in Rabat, if the information is wrong I will have three days travel down there plus three days to travel back to Rabat plus another three days to travel down again. 9 days! I have heard from several sources so i think the risk is worth it. All this because of a puncture!
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Day 10: Should I stay or should I go?
Distance: 110km, Start Kanitra, Morocco, End: Mohammedia, Morocco
Today started very well with the best cup of tea I have had since leaving the UK and a tasty pancake breakfast courtesy of Bob and Ellie. Thank you for giving me a good start to the day and for your donation to Street Child.
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Day 8: Europe to Africa
The missing day 8 post:
I took my time getting packed and ready to go this morning. This was my first night camping and it was an opportunity for me to rearrange things in a logical way. By 10.30 I was on my way to Algeciras and the ferry.
At every service station or layby along the road was a little tiny booth with massive signs advertising tickets to tangiers. At first I ignored them thinking i wanted official tickets not fake ones. As I got closer to town even the official road signs proclaimed tickets at the next junction. I succumbed to less than subliminal advertising, stopped, and bought one..
Mine said my ferry left for Tangier med at 2pm. I need not have been so suspicious of being ripped off.
First view of Africa I was at the terminal with loads of time to spare, the waiting area slowly filled with cars. And then, one by one, they started turning around, getting others to move out of their way, and driving off. 2pm came and went and a Spanish lady on a Ducati with her partner approached me and explained the port of Tangier med was closed and if i came back at 4.30 to the Cuetos terminal the ticket would let me on a ferry there. Great… where’s Cuetos?
It turns out it is Spanish held terratory along the coast from Tangier. Slight change of plan but nothing serious, I would however use Expedia to book a hotel there due to the time. I found an Ibis advertising for about 30 euros, bargain! I tried to book but the transaction failed. I put the address in my satnav anyway.
On landing it was getting late and I was getting tired. I followed the sat nav but suddenly the border post was in front of me! Eeek! What do I do? I had not seen any decent hotels so far and the area looked decidedly unhealthy as a place to stop and ask. Ok, let’s go for it…
Even before the first roundabout I was approached by a man wanting to speak to me, He dodged out of my way just in time, I have been warned about fixers! ! They help you through the borders for a fee. I can manage on my own thank you! The next guy approached me had a semi official tourist board id around his neck. I could have made that, I thought.
He asked me if i had the green import form for the bike! Christ! I forgot about that! I was supposed to get it on the Tangier ferry which lands in Morocco, my ferry landed in Spainish territory! Panic! What should I do? Ok, I had been told in these situations, play the dumb tourist. Not hard seeing I was the dumb tourist!
My friendly guy just happened to have the form and guided me around getting things done. . I was suspicious as hell and made it obvious to him I was not going to pay him. After the customs checked my now completed papers My friendly guy.explained he would show me a good safe hotel with a garage for the bike and then show me around the town. OK suspicions confirmed, alarms ringing, I decided to confront him. . How much was he going to charge for these services? He eventually said 35 euros. I surpassed myself at how quickly I agreed but the whole area did not feel safe and I did not fancy my chances of finding somewhere after the border, I followed him in a taxi, to the main town. I was expecting a short journey bit no, we went for many kilometers along a motorway, we went through police road checks and a toll booth where the fixer paid for me as well. Now this is where we all expect me to be led up a dark alley and be mugged, I was thinking this as well. But…
The garage is fine, the hotel cheap and reasonably clean, he gave me a walking tour of the old town and market, found me something to eat that was cooked on a BBQ right in front of me, and then returned me safely to my hotel. I was so grateful, and not having change, I have him 40 instead of the 35 he asked for.
So once again sir (he did tell me his name but I was too tense to remember it) I must apologise for doubting you and I am grateful for your help. For the second time today I need not have been so suspicious of being ripped off.
Tomorrow I plan to travel to Rabat where I need to get some visas via a blue town. …
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Day 9: Tatouan to Rabat
The bike needed a bit of maintenance this morning. The oil level was getting a little low as was the coolant; this is normal. Also one of the headlight bulbs had blown taking out the fuse with it: all easily fixed with the spares I am carrying.
The ride was fantastic, especially the beginning through very deep valleys with Farm covered slopes reaching up to near the summits. Through the day the land got flatter until I reached the Atlantic Coast where there were miles of flat plains.
What did I learn today about Morocco? The mule is the main source of transport (people and goods) for many people. In the hills it is mainly subsistance farming. Old Mercedes cars never die, they retire in Morocco.
I am sat by my tent looking up at the stars and listening to the beautiful sounds of the call to prayer at the local mosque.
Tomorrow I have been invited to breakfast with Ellie and Bob, two well seasoned brit travellers who Bob says are on the run from the old Bill. They seem a really nice couple and real Yorkshire tea and pancakes cannot be refused. Later I go into Rabat to get some visas.
Ps
Yesterday’s blog and photos to follow when I can find a Wifi hotspot.
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Day 7: Madrid to the Med
Distance: 620km, Start: Madrid, End: Calahonda between Malaga and Marbella, Spain
Another big mileage day today. It started with long flat straight motorways through farmland growing every kind of crop. Surrounding the plains were mountains and no sooner was I in them, the olive trees began. And they went on, and on, and on, and… you get the idea.
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Day 6: Madrid
Distance: 20km, Start: Madrid, End: Madrid
The only travelling today was from my hotel to the centre of Madrid and back. I spent most of the morning in Parque del Retiro which is a massive 19th century park with a big boating lake, a crystal palace and a modern art gallery.
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Day 5: Through the Heart of Spain
Distance: 450km, Start Pamplona, Spain, End: Madrid, Spain
This morning I thought I left in good time but i didn’t realise until later the clocks had gone forward so I lost an hour.
Initially I set my Satnav to Salamanca avoiding motorways, my intention was to go via Portugal, a place I have never been. After about an hour of depressing sights of closed businesses and decay all the while following alongside an empty motorway (it is Sunday), I reassessed what I was going to do. I decided riding around Spain and Portugal is something I can do in future, this trip is about Africa so why am I going via Portugal? If in future I circumnavigate Spain, going through the middle is a good plan for now. So that’s what I am doing. I reset the Satnav to Madrid using motorways and here I am.