Today we visited Villa D’Este in Tivoli which is a large Renaissance villa from the 16th century famous for its gardens full of fountains and water features. It inspired the Tivoli gardens in Copenhagen .
Tomorrow Patty’s son arrives with his partner and we will spend a few days in Rome with them.
Last October we stopped sailing in Lady Cindy with the intention of moving to West Wales to complete a three year work contract. Six months later, and we are travelling in a camper van around Europe, and eventually further afield. So what changed?
Mainly, the job was not as described. I was expecting to be given responsibility, trusted to manage my time, given responsibility for a small budget to get projects started etc. This was not the case and eventually, after being denied an opportunity to discuss issues with the trustees, I resigned.
While in Wales, Patty and I bought a Renault Master based camper van. Soon after buying it, it developed an engine problem, that is a long story but the bottom line is that we have had a new engine installed as well as new injectors, turbo, clutch etc. We have also done various improvements including a new bed, new water tank etc.
Our plan is to tour Europe this year, starting where we left off in Lady Cindy, Fiumicino, Rome. At the end of the year, we intend shipping the van to South America where we intend to tour next year. There is more planned that we will reveal nearer the time.
After spending 6 months in West Wales, Patty and I have started our travels again, this time in a Renault Master based camper van. We are currently near Rome having spent the last week preparing Lady Cindy for sale.
Patty and I will both contribute to this blog, this is just a quick update on whats happening now. In due course, we will blog more about our time in Wales, the van and our future plans.
Yesterday’s sail to Fiumicino was quite emotional. I knew it was the last big sail I’m going to do for a while. I am going to a marina in the Fiumicino canal later today where Lady Cindy will stay for up to three years while I complete a work contract in the UK. This is a pause in the journey not an end. That Atlantic ocean will still be there in three years waiting to be crossed.
The weather is definitely starting to turn, its been windier and cloudy the last two days. Its still warm though.
I will spend the next two weeks working on Lady Cindy. There are a few jobs i have put off needing parts or a non moving boat. On the 27th I start an epic journey to Southampton across Europe by train. More on that in a future post.
Patty is still in Argentina with family, the boat is quiet without her, and not as clean🤭 She returns to Italy at the beginning of November and after a brief visit to her apartment in Barletta, she will fly to the UK to join me in Wales.
Dotty and I have been slowly heading North back up to Fiumicino to dock the boat from the 15th. Most of my free time, and there has been a lot, has been spent working on an Android app. More on that later..
I was woken this morning with a call of ‘hello there’ bleary eyed, i popped my head out the open hatch above my bed to find a swimmer next to the boat. He asked to rest against the boat, he had swum well over 300m from a hotel complex ashore. I invited him aboard while i made coffee. His dry bag, which was full of water, contained his now wet cigarettes and a bottle of wine 🤣, did i mention he’s from Dublin? 🤣 he is on holiday with his girlfriend and went for a morning swim. We had a good chat and i took him back by dinghy.
In case you are wondering how Patty is getting on in Argentina..
I have now booked my journey back to the UK. It involves a £500, 33 hour journey using a taxi, 7 trains, a sleepover at Geneva station, crossing Paris by metro, a pet transport minibus through the channel tunnel and two more trains to Southampton. Well the alternative, was a 6 hour journey with two flights from Rome to Southampton via Amsterdam. That cost half as much, but dotty would have to travel as cargo 🤔 imagine her howling in the hold 😳.
At Southampton i will visit family and stay in a pet friendly hotel. I also pick up a car my uncle is kindly donating before driving back to wales. Friends have kindly arranged temporary accomodation while i look for something more permanent.
I have been developing an app called ShipsLog, the clue is in the name as to what it does. I am at the stage where i am using it myself snd ironing out bugs/making improvements. Watch this space for more information
We set out from Salerno a week ago with the intention of making progress South toward Sicily. We only got as far as crossing the bay to Agropoli 🤣. We were waylayed by good company and bad weather.
However, that’s one of the things we both love about this lifestyle; the freedom of not having to rush anywhere.
We initially stayed because we met Liz and Peter and enjoyed socializing with them. Then the weather (winds) hit and we hunkered down on LC. We were well protected, the anchor held, and we finished seasons 3&4 of the series we were watching 🤯. We also made a good dent on the refrigerated supplies we’d stocked up in Salerno (which was needed, since socializing meant eating out more than we normally do).
Now we’re getting ready to go out to dinner with Liz and Peter. Tomorrow we might move on… or not… 🤣
We have reached Salerno where Patty needs to leave for a few days to go back to Barletta. I will probably stay here and work on a phone app I am developing but may move South toward Scicily. The weather forecast is all over the place with some models predicting more storms. One unforecasted storm blew through last night forcing us to leave the anchorage to seek shelter in Salerno harbour.
This coast would be beautiful and well worth visiting if it were not for the Italian boaters. I would strongly advise any cruisers to avoid this coast in July and August. The marinas are stupidly expensive, €100-€160 per night, some places even charging €50 or more to just stop and fill with water. Luckily we have a secret weapon for that and have got free water (we did tip the marineros). We have an Italian speaking woman to soften up the invariably male marineros 😉. The other major problem is the sheer number of power boats going past between 10am and 8pm causing wash. It is very uncomfortable rolling on an anchor and as the waves come from all directions, a stern kedge anchor doesnt help. The Italians have no sence of courtesy on the water, they speed through anchorages, anchor too close to other boat and pass far too close.
On the plus side, the scenery is stunning, water is beautiful South of Naples, at night the anchorages are like mill ponds and we sleep with the hatch open and star gazing.
The seas between Rome and Naples are busy, very busy. The Italians love their motorboats, July and August are probably the not the best times to enjoy remote anchorages. At between 90 and 160 euros per night, marinas are to be avoided too.
We have made the most of it though by slowly travelling South. Patty’s ankle is still not strong enough to do some serious hiking but we have done some longer walks ashore in the last two days. We hope when we reach Pompei in the next week that she will be strong enough to enjoy it. In the mean time, a strict physio regime is being followed..
I have been doing a bit of boat maintenance recently. Lady Cindy has two new solar panels so we no longer have to be careful over consumption. I have replaced the rear water tank bladder, serviced the dinghy outboard, I have also been working on a ships log app I hope to sell commercially.
Last week we hired a car, drove from Fiumicino, through Rome, across Italy to Barletta around Barletta and Trani and eventually back to Fiumicino.
As an ex driving instructor, I feel I am qualified to have an opinion, not just on Italian drivers but also the road system. For those who want a summary… it’s madness 😳… here’s why.
First of all let’s point fingers at the beaurocrats. Apart from the motorways, most roads are in dire need of maintenance being full of pot holes, raised by tree roots and no or worn out road markings and signs. The last one explains a lot of the Italian driver’s behaviour.
It’s difficult to keep to a speed limit if you don’t know what it is, giving way at a junction is optional when there are no stop or give way lines and pedestrian crossings? Good luck with that one. On that topic, Patty and I were harassed by a driver scowling at us and reving his engine. He was stopped on the crossing held up by traffic ahead. We started to cross in front of him and the traffic ahead of him started to move, he was angry we were holding him up more. Bear in mind Patty was limping with an ankle injury 😳.
On one section of road there was a speed limit that kept changing between 50kph and 80kph. This was a very straight, wide road in a rural area. The safe speed could easily be 100kph along the whole stretch. There were half a dozen speed cameras on that road.
Over the last couple of weeks I have sailed from North Sardinia, to Corsica, across to the Italian mainland of Tuscanny and then South to the Roma region. I am currently anchored at Civitaveccia.
After the remote and underdeveloped beauty of Sardinia, Corsica and Orbitello, it was a bit of a shock to arrive in Civitaveccia yesterday. It went from miles of beaches to a big industrial and cruise port very quickly. Last night there was a lot of town and city noise that I am no longer used to; cars, trains, planes, loud voices, even fireworks.
I am making my way down to Fiumicino which is the location of Rome’s main airport. I am booked into a marina there for a two busy weeks. I have some boat maintenance to do and have spent a lot of money on Amazon to be delivered there including new solar panels and charger. I have been working on my laptop a lot in the last couple of weeks and my current panels cannot keep up.
On the 14th, Patty flies back from the USA and we have booked a hire car. After a few days in Fiumicino we drive to her apartment in Barletta for about a week then return to the boat. We then sail South together toward Scicily.
The plan is to sail around the boot of Italy this summer and then over winter in Barletta. We can travel by land from there back across to West Italy to visit places from Pisa to Rome in the winter months when it will be less busy and cooler. That gives the advantage of having more time to explore places like Scicily.